Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Pain a l'ancienne

Pain a l'ancienne is an interesting and fun style of bread to make.  The recipe that I first learned, and the one I used here is from Peter Reinhardt's book The Breadbaker's Apprentice.  It's a different method for making bread with results in a loaf with a very different flavor, a sort of bright, sweet, nutty flavor.
The dough is a very wet one.  The general recipe is:

  2 1/2 cups cold water (i.e. ice water)
  2 tsp dry yeast
  6 cups flour
  2 1/2 tsp salt

The method I used was to soften the yeast in the water, then add all of the flour and salt to the bowl of the mixer.  I then mixed it on low speed for 30 seconds or so until the flour was all hydrated.  Then I mixed on medium speed (this is a stand-up Kitchen Aid mixer) using the dough hook for about two 
minutes.  In my case, the dough was so sticky that I added some more flour, on table spoon at a time, to encourage the dough to not stick too badly on the mixing bowl.  Still, this is a very wet dough, and it will stick at least on the bottom of the bowl.  You just want it to crawl at least somewhat up the dough hook.

You don't really want to knead it for long, the gluten is going to form in while it sits in the refrigerator overnight.  However, when the dough is this sticky, transferring it is lots of fun.  I used a silicon spatula that I wetted down with cold water to scrape it from the mixing bowl to my heavy rising bowl.  Here's what I looked like:


Looks like fun to work with, doesn't it?

Now you cover it with plastic wrap 
and put it into the fridge and leave it at least over night.  

The next day, I took it out (well Patty did) about four hours before I was going to be working with it.  That allows it to get up to room temperature and continue to rise.
  By the time I got home, it had more or less doubled in size and looked nice and bubbly, like this:



From here, I put a nice layer of flour on the countertop (like a half cup or more) and had the flour container standing by for refresh as need be.  I took my silicon spatula and wetted it again and used that to scrape the dough out of the bowl and onto the countertop.  More flour onto the top of it; you pretty much always need a
 layer of flour between your hands and the dough, because if you get into it you may never be able to separate yourself from it.




I used my dough scraper to cut it into two pieces, and rounded them each up into a ball, which I then let rest for a few minutes.  From there, I flattened one of the balls out into a rectangle, more or less 12x7 inches, always using enough flour to keep things from sticking to each other.  Then, I cut the rectangle into three strips using the dough scraper.  At this point, it comes time to shape the dough.  This is definitely my weak point with bread, and with this dough I'm not sure how much you can do anyway.  Bu
t what I tried to do here was to stretch the dough evenly  into three "baguettes" each about 14 inches long and 2 inches wide which I placed on a sheet of parchment that was set on a cookie sheet.  You can see from the picture, that even stretching didn't really happen for me...
 
At this point, I set the cookie sheet out and let the dough rise while I worked the other piece in the same manner. Now I heated the oven to 500° and let the dough rise for about 30 minutes while it gets nice and hot.  

The bread rises, but it also spreads a lot, kind of like a ciabatta dough.  I mist the oven well with a spray bottle of water and put the slip the parchment sheet right onto my baking stone, baking one group of three loaves at at time.   The baking time is on the order of 25-35 minutes, you just want to watch for the caramelization to appear.   Technically Reinhardt says to measure the internal temperature of the loaves at 205 before declaring them done.  I just look for something like this:

I know, the shape is goofy, but believe me the smell and the flavor make you forget all about that.  And perhaps with enough work, I can figure out this whole shaping thing.

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