10. Remove the drive belts
AC belt is easy; loosen the tensioner and it comes right off. Power steering belt is harder. There is no tensioner and the driveshaft end is buried behind the AC pulley. You can loosen the PS pump and move it, but I needed a second set of hands to turn the crankshaft pulley with a big socket wrench and rotate the belt off while I pushed the PS pump as close to the crankshaft as possible.
The alternator/fan belt is also easy. The tensioner pulley (on top) loosens and then you crank it out to free the belt and take the belt off.
11. Remove AC bracket.
The AC bracket holds the compressor in place. Removing a few bolts allows you to take the compressor free of the bracket. I didn't drain the AC system, so I just left the compressor connected and pushed it out of the way. I see no reason to mess with it further; it seems like it should be easy to keep out of the way when removing the engine and then I'll just reconnect it when done. The bracket is held on by several long bolts. It was a bit difficult to get to a couple of them, but with a little effort I managed to remove them all and take the bracket off. The tensioner is mounted directly on the bracket as well. There is also a ground strap attached at the AC bracket, so it came off too.
Next I removed the fan pulley and the plate upon which it is mounted. This is sort of odd shaped and held on by a bunch of different sized and length bolts; I hope I can remember what goes where when it's time to put it back on! I did gather up the related bolts into plastic bags and mark them carefully (i.e. Power Steering, Fan Pulley and AC).
12. Remove the alternator. This is very simple at this point in time. It's only held on by a couple of bolts/nuts and comes right off.
13. Remove and drain the oil cooler radiator. This isn't necessary strictly speaking. But it occurred to me that it will still be holding some of the old oil. So I removed it and let it drain for a while. The only hard part is getting a wrench on the 23mm bolts that hold the lines on. But, having replaced the lines several years ago, I had a box-end wrench on hand, so it was easy to get it off.
 |
| Oil cooler, front and center |
14. Disconnect from the engine:
* The oil cooler lines. These are the other ends of the lines mentioned above (in 13). They also have 23mm banjo bolts holding them on.
* Ground strap, passenger side.
* Heater core hoses. These were hard, as usual. But I was able to detach them from the firewall side if not the engine. They'll just come out with the engine where I can remove them more easily. I'll probably be replacing them in the end anyway.
* Fuel lines. The fuel pressure was relieved at the beginning, so these came right off. Only a small amount of fuel was left to leak out.
At this point, the engine is completely disconnected from the vehicle with the following exceptions:
1. The engine mounts;
2. The transmission bell-housing to engine bolts;
3. The exhaust system
The first two will remain attached until I'm actually ready to pull the engine. The exhaust system will be the next thing to detach, but this will take some work. The exhaust manifolds are mounted to the exhaust pipes with 19mm bolts that require a socket deeper than anything I have. And they are well buried between the engine, transmission, and other things and won't be easy to get at. That will be my next major task.
 |
| Engine, disconnected |
No comments:
Post a Comment